Greetings from the land of Pyramids, Pharaohs, never ending sun, and of course touts,
We have completed our journey up and back along the Nile, a tourist track that has been followed since the Greeks first infiltrated this land in the waning years BC. It is an interesting feeling to be around things that are so old. In our culture, when we think of things that are old or historical we think on the order of hundreds of years. Everything is an order of magnitude grander in Egypt, as most sights are many thousands of years old. Not only that, but they are incredibly unguarded and accessible. The liberty bell in Philly is a couple hundred years old and behind protective glass casing, in a locked down building, etc. But here, we are able (but try to resist the urge) to get right up next to walls and run our hands along hieroglyphics that were chiseled by hand over 5000 years ago. Peering with our own eyes, not just in a textbook, so far back into our human history is a very foreign and cool feeling.
Despite our fears, largely fueled by the western media's tendency to sensationalize any fear or unrest in the Middle East, Egypt has been most welcoming and in all our experience, quite safe. In truth, the biggest problem has been fending off the touts. They are everywhere. "Come into my shop, looking is free! I make you good price, special price, just for you. Let me help you spend your money." They can be quite cleaver, doing whatever they can to get your attention. My favorite, yet most creepy... "Hey mustache! I knew you would come by my shop, I dreamed of you!" Although both Clo and I agree that they are easier to deal with here than elsewhere in our travels. Perhaps it's the truth or perhaps we have just grown used to it along our journey.
Our introduction to Egypt was made much easier and pleasant thanks to the incredible hospitality of Paul and Kathleen, ex-pats living in Cairo and working with US AID whom Chloe made connection with before we came. It was so great to get the perspective and help of locals who know the city. From giving us tips on where to eat and how to getting around, to hooking us up with a trusted and honest guide for the pyramids, they were invaluable. Certainly helped dissipate our fears of danger and get us in a better mindset for our travels.
We spent 4 days in Cairo, first visiting the Grand Egyptian Museum, The place is huge and is by far the most unorganized and least protected museum I've seen. Rooms and rooms just packed full of antiquities, few marked or explained and most all readily touchable. I gawked and marveled as I touched pyramid capstones, examined incredible statues and inscriptions from just inches away, and was blown away by the treasures of King Tut. Despite the lack of protection, cameras are not allowed, so I have no pictures to share but the memories will suffice.
My personal Cairo highlight however, was our full day tour of the "pyramid trifecta," emcompassing a variety of pryamid types. While the pyramids at Giza are the most famous and well known (and therefore chocked full of tourists) there are 2 other incredible pyramid complexes near Cairo. Our first visit was to Dashur, and its Bent and Red Pyramids. The Bent Pyramid was one of the first large smooth-sided pyramids to be built and provided the learning blue print for the famous Giza complex. Built by the Pharaoh Sneferu, and begun at an angle of 54 degrees, the Bent Pyramid became unstable as it went up, and thus the upper portion was finished at an angle of 43 degrees. (Notice Chloe, very small, in the foreground)
After this pyramid, all smooth-sided ones were built using the proven 43 degree angle. Also built by Sneferu and next to the Bent, is the Red Pyramid, the first to use the 43 degree mark. Although not particularly stunning itself, we were allowed to go deep inside and check out the burial chamber. We were lucky enough to be there early in the AM and thus were the only ones inside. Very cool and surreal! Also included in our tour was the complex of Saqqara, where the Step Pyramid was built. Before the advancement of smooth-sided pyramids, most all were built in "steps" like this. (pyramid being restored)
Also in Saqqara we went into some tombs of nobles and priests.
Last but certainly not least, we headed back to Cairo's Giza neighborhood/area to see the most famous of them all.
Although a very touristy and goofy thing to do...camels were indeed ridden.
Otherwise our time in Cairo was spent checking out different neighborhoods and getting our bearings. A mosque in Islamic Cairo:
We took an overnight train up the Nile and moved onto the fabled land of Luxor. On the East Bank we visited the Temples of Luxor and Karnak, and on the west bank the Valley of Kings (again no pics allowed), Temple of Medinat Habu, and Temple of Hatshepsut (pictured).
After a couple days we caught another train and continued up the Nile to Aswan. In Aswan, a 4am departure time (required to join a mandatory police lead convoy, never found out exactly why) had us on the road to visit the very large temple of Abu Simbel. It was built by the great Ramses III in praise of himself and to warn all those traveling into Egypt from Nubia (modern day Sudan-ish) of his power and might. It is quite remarkable, as the entire temple was dismantled, moved and rebuilt in the late 60s as the rising waters of the artificial Lake Nassar, created by the High Aswan Dam, would have submerged the temple at its original location.
We also visited the similarly rebuilt/relocated Temple of Philae, located on an island, built in honor of the god Isis. We got pretty templed out, and to relax and reset we hopped on a 3 day, 2 night sail boat trip down the Nile aboard a felluca (traditional Egyptian sailboat). With little current we zig-zagged back and forth, tacking from bank to bank to harness the winds which inconveniently blow in the opposite direction.
Easy days, an interesting group of shipmates, and nights sleeping out aboard the boat provided the R&R required to...you guessed it, see more temples on the way back to Luxor: Kom Ombo and Edfu.
Typical temple reliefs:
All and all traveling up and down the Nile was a great experience. Being "tired" of all the sightseeing (tough life, I know) Chloe and I have made it to the Red Sea resort town of Dahab, on the south eastern Sanai. Here we will take it easy, relax and check out some of the worlds best snorkeling before our return to Cairo and our final destination, Greece.
Best wishes to all friends and family back home. Belated Happy Birthday wishes to my uncle Wally, and upcoming to my aunts Christine and Shelia. Oh, and Happy Thanksgiving to everyone, eat lots of Turkey for us!
Home in just about 2 weeks,
Matt
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